How To Grow And Care for Kinky Hair: A Step-by-Step Guide

Contrary to popular belief, it is a myth to think that you can't achieve length or grow out your kinky hair. Although kinky hair types are often considered fragile and more prone to breakage, with proper and deliberate care, you can successfully grow and maintain your natural curls.

To achieve healthy and flourishing natural curls, we will provide a step-by-step guide that any natural hair Queen can follow to grow and maintain her kinky hair. So get ready for your journey towards longer kinky hair.

1. Wash Your Kinky Hair In Twists

Having brittle hair can be a major concern for those with kinky hair. It can hinder hair length retention and weaken the hair strands.

When your natural hair gets wet, it tends to shrink the most. Therefore, washing your hair without proper care can cause your curls to clump together, leading to excessive hair breakage.

Washing your hair in twists, on the other hand, provides easier access to the scalp for cleaning and helps prevent shrinkage.

What You Need to Wash Your Kinky Hair in Twists

  1. Shampoo
  2. Conditioner

How to Wash Your Kinky Hair in Twists

  1. Put your hair into two-strand twists, creating about 10 twists. If you have shorter hair, make smaller twists; if your hair is longer, make bigger twists.
  2. Wet your hair thoroughly.
  3. Apply the shampoo to your scalp first. Massage it all over your scalp, ensuring even coverage. Use your fingers to reach the scalp underneath the twists.
  4. Pull the shampoo through the length of your hair.
  5. Repeat the process for a more thorough cleansing.
  6. Rinse out the shampoo completely.
  7. Apply conditioner to your hair. Massage it into your hair and scalp evenly, following the same routine as with the shampoo.
  8. Rinse your hair thoroughly, and now it is squeaky clean.
@Igbocurls shares a step-by-step process for washing your afro kinky hair in twists:

2. Finger Detangle Your Kinky Hair

When it comes to detangling your thick natural afro, it's best to use your fingers. Using your fingers allows you to feel the knots and makes the detangling process easier compared to using a comb.

Finger detangling enables you to gently unravel the knots and minimize hair breakage. Combs tend to tear through the knots, leading to split ends throughout your hair.

Trimming your hair frequently due to split ends is not ideal if you want to grow and maintain the length of your kinky hair.

What you need to finger detangle kinky hair

  1. Your fingers
  2. Conditioner

How to finger detangle kinky hair

  1. Divide your hair into sections and use your fingers to detangle and separate the strands.
  2. Wet your hair and apply conditioner to a section of hair.
  3. Starting from the bottom, run your fingers through the ends to detangle.
  4. Move up to the roots and continue detangling with your fingers until you can easily slide your fingers through your hair.

3. Use Hot Oil Deep Conditioning For Your Kinky Hair

One of the most important steps in your wash day routine is the hot oil deep conditioning process. This involves applying essential and natural oils to your hair, with special attention to the ends.

Deep conditioning allows the conditioner to penetrate the hair shaft and leave your hair feeling moisturized, strengthened, and hydrated. Hot oil deep conditioning is highly beneficial for kinky hair.

What You Need for Hot Oil Deep Conditioning

  1. Natural/essential oils
  2. Microwave as a heat source
  3. Applicator bottle
  4. Shower cap

    How to Do Hot Oil Deep Conditioning for Your Kinky Hair

    1. Choose one or a combination of essential/natural oils, such as Jojoba oil, coconut oil, olive oil, tea tree oil, or castor oil.
    2. Thoroughly wash your hair with shampoo.
    3. Divide your hair into four sections or put it into twists to ensure even product distribution.
    4. Pour the oils into a microwavable dish and heat for about 30 seconds. Alternatively, heat the oils on a stove using a small pot or heat them in an applicator bottle with hot water. Be careful not to overheat the oil to avoid burning your scalp.
    5. Allow the oil to cool before applying it to your hair.
    6. Gently massage the oil into your hair and scalp or use the applicator bottle.
    7. Cover your hair with a shower cap for approximately 20 minutes or sit under a hooded dryer. This will help open up the hair cuticles and allow the oil to deeply penetrate and moisturize your hair.
    8. Rinse your hair thoroughly with lukewarm water to remove any excess oil. Apply a leave-in conditioner afterward.
    9. Style your hair as desired.

    Watch this video by @tatenda for visual guidance on the hot oil deep conditioning process for kinky hair.


    4. Moisturize Your Kinky Hair Regularly

    Water is essential for moisturizing your kinky hair. Make sure to immerse your ends in water daily to prevent split ends and retain length.

    Dry, older ends are more prone to breakage, so keeping them moisturized is crucial.

    When purchasing a moisturizing styling product, check that water is listed as one of the key ingredients.

    Apply moisturizers to damp hair before styling it into a protective style.

    What You'll Need to Moisturize Your Kinky Hair

    1. Water
    2. Natural hair oil
    3. Moisturizer (with water as a key ingredient)
    4. Detangling brush 

    How to Moisturize Your Kinky Hair

    1. Spritz water onto your hair to refresh your curls.
    2. Apply your preferred natural hair oil to your scalp and gently massage it in to promote blood flow and hair growth.
    3. Divide your hair into smaller sections.
    4. Apply moisturizer to a section of hair, starting from the ends and working your way up to the roots. Finger-detangle your hair while applying the moisturizer.
    5. Seal and lock in the moisturizer by applying natural hair oil to that section of hair.
    6. Use a detangling brush to comb out any shedding hair trapped at the roots, then twist the section.
    7. Repeat these steps for the remaining sections of hair.

    Watch this video to see @Tyiece's tips on how to moisturize your kinky hair.

    5. Wear Protective Styles for Your Kinky Hair

    One of the best ways to grow and maintain kinky hair is by utilizing protective styling techniques.

    Protective styles such as braids, twists, natural hair wigs, or hair extensions are ideal for giving your hair a break from constant manipulation and safeguarding your ends from breakage, allowing it to grow.

    There are various options available if you want to adopt protective styling for your kinky hair. You can invest in natural hair wigs that closely resemble and blend with your natural curl pattern.

    Alternatively, you can opt for kinky hair extensions or kinky clip-ins, which are easier to install and provide a seamless look, almost like your own hair.

    If you're interested in exploring sew-in styles or creating your own kinky hair clip-ins, kinky hair bundles should be your go-to choice.

    How to Install Kinky Hair Extensions

    If you're still undecided on which protective styling method to choose, you can watch this tutorial by @kelechi on how to install kinky hair extensions to get started.


    6. Wash And Go Method For Kinky Hair

    Kinky hair requires regular hydration for its curls, coils, and kinks. The wash-and-go method is a great way to keep your natural curls hydrated and healthy by maximizing water absorption.

    Consistently following this natural hair technique will improve hydration and moisture levels, ensuring happy curls.

    The outcome of your wash-and-go process will also depend on your hair's porosity and texture.

    What You Need for the Wash and Go Method on Kinky Hair

    1. Sulfate-free shampoo
    2. Conditioner
    3. Leave-in conditioner
    4. Wide-tooth comb
    5. Shower cap
    6. Natural hair oil
    7. Curling custard or styling gel
    8. Satin/silk scarf

    How to Do the Wash and Go Method for Kinky Hair

    1. Completely wet your hair with water to reveal your curl pattern
    2. Apply a sufficient amount of sulfate-free shampoo to your scalp and massage it in with your fingers. Rinse thoroughly.
    3. Apply a generous amount of conditioner to your hair, smoothing it from roots to ends.
    4. Detangle your hair by using your fingers or a wide-tooth comb to gently remove shed hair and knots.
    5. Cover your hair with a shower cap and let the conditioner sit for at least 10 minutes. Rinse it out thoroughly.
    6. Apply the leave-in conditioner, ensuring your hair is well-saturated. This will nourish and maintain its health.
    7. Massage your preferred natural hair oil throughout your hair strands. Lightly wet your hair until it is slightly damp.
    8. Divide your hair into smaller sections and apply an ample amount of curling custard or styling gel, working it from root to tip. Use your fingers to separate the curls.
    9. Shake your hair vigorously to separate the curls and add volume.
    10. Allow your hair to air dry or dry it overnight. Avoid using a hairdryer.
    11. Gather your hair into a puff and secure it with a satin/silk scarf to preserve your curls while sleeping.
    12. Remove the scarf the next day and spritz your hair with a leave-in conditioner to refresh your curls.
    13. Style your hair as desired.

    Watch this video tutorial by @niahope to successfully achieve the wash-and-go method for your kinky hair.


    7. Trim Your Kinky Hair

    To promote the growth of longer kinky hair, it is important to trim your hair at least twice a year.

    Don't be afraid of getting regular trims. While it may seem counterintuitive to cut off the new length you have already achieved, holding onto damaged or split ends will hinder the growth of healthy hair at the roots.

    By trimming your ends frequently, you can achieve length and allow your natural kinks to thrive and look their best.

    What You Need to Trim Your Natural Hair

    1. Hair shears
    2. Wide-tooth comb
    3. Denman brush
    4. Fine tooth comb

    How to Trim Your Natural Hair

    1. Begin with damp hair, not wet hair.
    2. Divide your hair into smaller sections.
    3. Finger detangle each section of hair.
    4. Comb through your hair using the wide-tooth comb followed by the Denman brush.
    5. Use a fine-tooth comb for further combing.
    6. Once you encounter resistance at the ends, use the hair shears to cut off any knots. You will notice that your comb glides through your hair after removing the damaged ends.
    7. Twist your hair and trim off the small tail that tapers at the end of the twist.
    8. Repeat these steps for the remaining sections of hair.

    For a video tutorial on how to correctly trim your kinky hair, check out this video by @natural85


    8. Use Less Heat On Your Kinky Hair

    The days of using curling irons or flat irons on your kinky hair are over. Applying too much heat to your hair can be damaging to its natural state.

    For healthier and longer kinky hair, it is recommended to avoid drying and styling your hair with heat. Instead, explore heatless techniques to achieve defined curls on kinky hair. Your hair will thank you for it.

    However, if you still choose to apply heat, make sure to use a heat protectant, keep the temperature low, and use a blow dryer with a comb attachment to minimize hair damage.

    9. Protect Your Kinky Hair with a Scarf or Bonnet Before Bedtime

    If you're still sleeping with a cotton pillowcase, it's time to make a change. Sleeping on a cotton pillowcase can cause friction and lead to excessive hair breakage for those with kinky hair.

    Instead, opt for a silk or satin scarf that you can wrap around your hair before going to bed. If you struggle to keep the scarf in place while you sleep, consider using a satin bonnet as a more convenient alternative.

    Another option is to place a satin or silk scarf over your pillow to maintain healthy hair in the morning.

    What You Need to Protect Kinky Hair with a Scarf or Bonnet

    1. Satin/silk scarf
    2. Bonnet

    How to Protect Hair with a Scarf or Bonnet

    1. Divide your hair into sections and create loose twists or put it up in a puff.
    2. Wrap a silk or satin scarf around your hair and secure it properly.
    3. Alternatively, wear a bonnet..

    10. Maintain A Healthy Lifestyle

    Having healthy and luscious hair is a reflection of a healthy lifestyle. By adopting and maintaining a healthy and unique lifestyle, you can naturally achieve healthier-looking hair. Here are some tips to help you achieve this:

    • Learn to eat healthier meals that are rich in protein, and incorporate vegetables and fruits into your diet.
    • Engage in regular exercise at least three times a week.
    • Reduce unnecessary physical or mental stress.
    • Stay hydrated by drinking plenty of water.

    By following these steps, you can watch your natural curls thrive endlessly.

    Written by Martha O